04 June 2009

Samobor


Only 20 kilometres from Zagreb and five from the Slovenian border, this charming town is absolutely worth the visit if only for the kremšnita at U Prolazu on the main square. Normally we don't recommend (or eat) any desserts in the region (this isn't a guide to Paris or Beirut), but this particular version of the pastry crust & vanilla custard-based dessert - served cold elsewhere, but the turnover at U Prolazu is so high it doesn't have time to cool - will make you rethink Western Balkan desserts. Grab two (everyone does) with a coffee and enjoy the view over the square.

While you are in town, run around the corner (literally) to Podrum Filipec (Straznička 1a, tel +385 (1) 3364 835) where the Filipec family makes the unique Bermet, a ruby red digestif of grapes and certainly a unique product. If you don't feel like leaving just yet, check with the Samobor Tourist Board to see what else is going on.

When should you go? That's easy - whenever you are sick of the traffic or summer heat in Zagreb (Samobor tends to be 1 to 2 degrees Celsius cooler) or on your way to/from Slovenia (heading Zagreb-Ljubljana or vice versa). If you don't feel like driving (and paying for parking), take a bus; they leave about every half hour from the Zagreb Bus Station (Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb).

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